![]() ![]() will probably go back to Dingotone for next job. Can't say I like working with nitro though. The acrylic ink looks great, the Speedball india ink looks almost as good, but Higgins india ink STILL looks awful. It’s got a silky surface, doesn’t buckle when a puddle of ink sits on top, smooth ride, and the nibs don’t pull up fibers. It gives a finish like coal, with some grain shiny, other more porous grain a bit duller. Borden and Riley’s 234 Paris Bleedproof paper for pens (108lb). It does darken the board up a bit (I do the same thing on my acoustic guitar bridges if theyre light), but any tint change is very temporary. Every now and then Ill use lemon oil on the boards and let it soak in for a while before wiping off. I've got to say - this Speedball indian ink is really nice to work with on Ash. Ive got a few guitars with very light rosewood boards that are almost pao ferro light. it's not sticking out like the proverbial dogs whatsits. I guess a black filled crack on a shiny heavilly textured black guitar is always going to show up in a certain light, but it now looks part of the character of the guitar - i.e. Have now sprayed 8 more nitro coats over 2 nights, and it looks OK. So I got the Speedball Indian ink out and a cotton bud and gave the crack a good few wipes to re-stain it, get the ink into it. I sanded lightly, then found I exposed some wood at the edge of the crack. ![]() It seems like the nitro is building ridges at the edges if the crack. So I think in some respects it is just a surface thing. It must have got some filler in it when I grain filled. On my Red J Bass this left unexpected grain contours which I think now look great and retained them as a further grain feature. Using a damp clean rag works better but being water based and introducing more water watch out for Timber Mate shrinkage once it rehydrates and dries again. dunk rag in ink and wipe on and then with a clean rag try to almost buff or polish off as much as you can before it completely dries. If you want more black/grey tones then a good quality India ink is the go and suggest trying to soak up as much as you can from the initial stain application, ie. Stupid me grabbed some cheap black ink pad ink to darken it up and oh what a disaster.best to avoid that crap as it has a very sticky oily residue and makes everything look crap.Įnded up sanding most off and thankfully had left the steel wool in vinegar solution to brew a few more days so there was enough to do the job. On my Alder Tele the first stain coat looked more olive green than grey/black and I completely freaked out but shouldn't have panicked as it still keeps oxidising for several days. Speedball Black India Ink - Minwax Satin wipe on polyurethane - 0000 steel wool or similar - Cotton rag - 3/4' artist's paint brush. Hi Buddy, just caught up with this thread and was curious to see how the chemical wash worked on Ash. ![]()
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